Showing posts with label tall trees and moss. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tall trees and moss. Show all posts

Monday, March 12, 2012

Who invited tomatoes to the salad party?


I’m a little embarrassed to be working at a local restaurant, but human life is unfortunately motivated and lubricated with money. Regrettably, I am no exception to the laws of economics and need some capital for advancement of my botanical pursuits. Although restaurants may not be the most interesting place for the aspiring naturalist, they can inspire some questions.


Before I go further, let me define my use of the word “vegetable.” In horticulture a vegetable is typically a plant that is used in salads or snacks and a fruit is a plant that is consumed for a snack or desert (and is typically considered sweet, sugary). You may be interested to know that Congress passed a law calling tomatoes a vegetable so a tax can be applied to them, but that’s a different topic. Opposed to horticultural terms, a fruit in botanical terms is more or less the structure resulting from sexual reproduction. In my experience with botany, the term vegetable doesn’t really exist; rather vegetative refers to somatic cells and organs not pertaining to reproduction. The definitions are pretty close, but I just wanted to distinguish them. I’ll be referring to vegetables in the horticultural sense and despite tomatoes’ vegetable status, deep down refuse to think they are anything but fruits.


My restaurant duties include making salads. 80% of the salads I make require romaine lettuce and 90% require tomato. Tomatoes are New World (aka the Americas) plants that have somehow insinuated their way into traditional Italian cuisine. I’ve always been amazed with that. Someplace I remember reading that the first colonists refused to eat tomatoes because they were red and thought they were poisonous; a prejudice that still exists in somefolks. Red fruits and vegetables…a whole other can of worms I may open at a later date.


As I am ruminating the adoption of tomatoes by Italian culture and slicing tomatoes for salads in the restaurant, it hits me: How did tomatoes get into salads? Is romaine lettuce a New World plant? What about other common salad characters like radishes, arugula, cucumber, onion, carrots?


It’s not hard to understand why salads exist. Humans are omnivores, we eat an array of vegetables matter, some have more or different nutrients than others, eating these different types separately is kind of silly, so throw them together in the right proportions to get the right amount of nutrients in one location, and badda-bing-badda-boom. Salad.


Humans have always been keen on travelling and in so doing have allowed the introduction and exchange of lots of cultivated vegetables. It is not hard to fathom that cucumbers originating in India, radishes from Eastern Europe, arugula from southwest Asia, carrots- Europe/Asia, romaine lettuce from the Mediterranean, all made in into the same bowl. Onions, interestingly enough, have wild species native to New and Old Worlds, so it is no wonder they are one of the usual salad-suspects. Who invited the tomato?!Was it placed in salad before it was thrown into the pot for sauce? Or did someone want their vitamin C without going through the trouble of cooking vegetable and simply added it "raw" to their leafy greens? It is likely globalization has simply expanded the variety of vegetables we can put in our salads.


What we need to be concerned with is the actual nutrition of these salads. Salads probably resulted because they provided a balanced nutrients and diet. With the addition and subtraction of certain vegies, we should make sure these exchanges maintain nutritional content. A salad should not be considered healthy only because it is vegetables. Without proper components a salad may have the nutritional equivalent to rice cakes; it may be tasty, but lacking in other key dietetic elements. I'm not really sure this is a problem. This paragraph is mostly me thinking out loud. I’m not a nutritionist, but it seems like a valid concern, and easily remedied problem (if it even is a problem).


What is a problem is the amount of food wasted by restaurants. What I would consider fit for consumption, for example the proximal ends of romaine lettuce, is thrown out at the restaurant I work at. This is just one example, but if you were to sort the garbage at any given restaurant, you'd notice what I'm talking about. I will stop here before it this paragraph turns into a ramble.


This website was cited on some of the Wikipedia articles I read. I’ve used it before for some research projects. You can compare countries’ agricultural products by downloading spreadsheets and graphs among other things. You’re smart, you’ll figure it out. http://faostat.fao.org/site/567/default.aspx#ancor


This is a strange website I stumbled upon. I don’t like they way these folks are looking at me: http://www.dole.com/#/superkids/


Wikipedia provided me with a lot of the information on the origins of the vegies mentioned above FYI.

Friday, February 17, 2012

what I wanted to know more about at the dentist's...

I apologize for not posting last week. I would make an excuse about being busy, but what’s the point? As I mentioned a couple of weeks ago I was interested in curare. Of all the phytochemicals useful to humankind, curare is, perhaps, most important to modern surgery. I vaguely remember going under or waking up from anesthesia as before or after getting my wisdom teeth out. I don't know what gave gave me to knock me out...I think I asked them (before I may have made a joke about breast implants?) but I think they told me I wouldn't remember anyways... I'm hoping it was something similar to curare.

Native Amazonians, presumably through trial and error, found a poison that renders its victim dead after it enters the bloodstream. Although they were likely using this poison for thousands of years, western culture became fascinated with it and took centuries to isolate the causal chemical. During the course of the chemical’s elucidation, people like Condamine, Humbolt, Waterton, Sir Walter Raleigh, were among the naturalists and explorers who documented or collected plants used in the preparation of the arrow poison. Slews of scientists experimented, but Sir Henry Dale followed by Otto Loewl determined it must be similar to acetyl-choline. In fact, the chemical inhibits the neurotransmitter acetyl-choline by binding to its target site. The result is relaxation of motor neurons and the diaphragm, which can result in death (1).

Obviously, the chemical is called curare, but it warrants a little disambiguation. The arrow poison developed by Amazonian Indians was/is made with several adjuvants. The entire concoction has come to be known as curare, but only one chemical (or one of its derivatives) are responsible for inducing a paralyzed state. The alkaloid d-tubocurarine, which causes paralysis is produced by species Strychnos (Loganaceae) and Chondrodendron (Menispermaceae). d-tubocurarine is commonly called curare (2).

Okay. So that was brief, brief explanation of what curare is and where it comes from. Clinical experiments with pure forms of d-tubocurarine were eventually shown to have no negative effects on patients and went on to be the standard for anesthetics (1). This excerpt from Griffiths and Johnson’s 1942 description of clinical curare use perfectly describes the wonder-drug potential: “Under cyclopropane anesthesia, relaxation of the anal sphincter was unsatisfactory. Immediately after the administration of 5c.c. Intocostrin [d-tubocurarine], complete relaxation was obtained, and the operation was easily performed (4).”

As I mentioned, curare, the arrow-poison, was from the Amazon. However, ethnobotanists have also found arrow poisons used by African and Southeast Asian tribes containing similar chemical constituents (3). Strychnos species take on a few different habits like lianas, climbing shrubs or even small trees. Depending where you are in the tropical world, the bark or roots may be used to extract poison. In the Amazon, after a little processing, the poison would be applied to darts for hunting. The meat of an animal contaminated with poison can ingested because the poison is not absorbed through the digestive tract! So cool!

Stuff Cited:

(1)Lee, M.R. 2005. Curare: the South American arrow poison. J R Coll Physicians Edinburgh 35:83-92

(2)Philippe, G., Angenot, L., Tits, M., & Frederich, M. 2004. About the toxicity of some Strychnos species and their alkaloids. Toxicon 44: 405-416.

(3) Philippe, G., & Angenot, L. 2005. Recent developments in the field of arrow and dart poisons. J. Ethnopharmacology 100: 85-91.

(4)Griffith, H.R. & Johnson, G.E. 1945. The use of curare in general anesthesia.

Wednesday, February 1, 2012

219 Species

So I finally mounted a ton of the plant's I've collected. They are listed below in alphabetical order by family. Mounted are 219 species. The notebook I record my collections in lists 242 collections. The reason for the discrepancy in numbers is a lost notebook. My first 151 collections were recorded with date, location, ecological settings and plant characters that might disappear with drying. Unfortunately, the second notebook I lost also contained all of this information. Many the labels on my collections are missing at least a date. I can pretty accurately remember where I collected and general ecological conditions, which I think is common.

I just felt like posting this because I'm relieved to have gotten this task out of my hair. From now on, after collecting a plant, I'm going to I.D. it as quickly as possible and write up labels. I'm also going to take care to hold on to those precious notebooks-they contain too much valuable information too loose.

If you find any spelling errors please let me know.


Collection Number
Plant Name Family
199 Dicliptera sexangularis Acanthaceae
175 Sesuvium maritimum Aizoaceae
51 Alisma subcordatum Alismataceae
132 Alteranthera flavescens Amaranthaceae
189 Schinus terebinthifolius Anacardiaceae
155 Toxicodendron radicans Anacardiaceae
1 Angelica lucida Apiaceae
45 Angelica lucida Apiaceae
41 Daucus carota Apiaceae
138 Catharanthus roseus Apocynaceae
213 Sarcostemma clausum Apocynaceae
73 Vinca minor Apocynaceae
80 Arisaema triphyllum Araceae
118 Achillea millefolium ssp. Lanulosa Asteraceae
118 Achillea millefolium ssp. lanulosa Asteraceae
11 Antennaria howellii Asteraceae
105 Balsamorhiza sagittata Asteraceae
176 Borrichia frutescens Asteraceae
131 Chrysothamnus nauseosus var. albicaulis Asteraceae
129 Chrysothamnus viscidiflorus var. viscidiflorus Asteraceae
30 Cichorium intybus Asteraceae
209 Cirsium horridum Asteraceae
126 Crepis acuminata Asteraceae
153 Emilia fosbergii Asteraceae
3 Erigeron philladelphicus Asteraceae
98 Erigeron pumilus var. gracilior Asteraceae
91 Erigeron spp. Asteraceae
198 Erigeron spp. Asteraceae
170 Eupatorium serotinum Asteraceae
122 Iva axillaris Asteraceae
204 Mikania scandens Asteraceae
204 Mikania scandens Asteraceae
204 Mikania scandens Asteraceae
181 Pluchea carolinensis Asteraceae
208 Pluchea carolinensis Asteraceae
208 Pluchea carolinensis Asteraceae
202 Pluchea foetida Asteraceae
214 Sphagneticola trilobata Asteraceae
178 Sesuvium portulacastrum Azioaceae
43 Impatiens capensis Balsaminaceae
102 Hackelia micrantha Boraginaceae
140 Heliotropium angiospermum Boraginaceae
177 Heliotropium curassavicum Boraginaceae
169 Heliotropium polyphyllum Boraginaceae
107 Lithospermum ruderale Boraginaceae
235 Mertensia maritima var. maritima Boraginaceae
100 Mertensia spp. Boraginaceae
100 Mertensia spp. Boraginaceae
13 Myosotis laxa Boraginaceae
92 Allysum desertorum Brassicaceae
37 Berteroa incana Brassicaceae
37 Berteroa incana Brassicaceae
237 Cakile edentula Brassicaceae
104 Erysimum spp. Brassicaceae
139 Lepidium virginicum Brassicaceae
152 Tillandsia usneoides Bromelliaceae
195 Opuntia humifusa Cactaceae
21 Campanula rotundifolia Campanulaceae
154 Lobelia feayana Campanulaceae
27 Lonicera canadensis Caprifoliaceae
16 Cerastium spp. Caryophyllaceae
127 Silene douglasii var. douglasii Caryophyllaceae
15 Stellaria graminea Caryophyllaceae
39 Hypericum perforatum Clusiaceae
33 Commelina communis Commelinaceae
57 Clintonia borealis Convallariaceae
26 Maianthemum canadense Convallariaceae
219 Maianthemum canadense Convallariaceae
225 Medeola virginiana Convallariaceae
10 Calystegia sepium Convolvulaceae
188 Ipomoea alba Convolvulaceae
161 Ipomoea indica Convolvulaceae
183 Ipomoea indica Convolvulaceae
212 Ipomoea wrightii Convolvulaceae
185 Momordica charantia Cucurbitaceae
186 Momordica charantia Cucurbitaceae
226 Eriophorum vaginatum var. spissum Cyperaceae
171 Rhynchospora colorata Cyperaceae
238 Drosera rotundifolia Droseraceae
63 Dryopteris intermedia Dryopteridaceae
63 Dryopteris intermedia Dryopteridaceae
79 Polystichum braunii Dryopteridaceae
120 Equisetum hyemale Equisetaceae
228 Chamaedaphne calyulata var. angustifolia Ericaceae
231 Kalmia angustifolia Ericaceae
220 Unidentified Ericaceae
229 Vaccinium macrocarpum Ericaceae
230 Vaccinium macrocarpum Ericaceae
172 Chamaesyce hyssopifolia Euphorbiaceae
150 Poinsettia cyathophora Euphorbiaceae
192 Erythrina herbacea Fabaceae
234 Lathyrus japonicus Fabaceae
234 Lathyrus japonicus Fabaceae
234 Lathyrus japonicus Fabaceae
179 Rynchosia michauxii Fabaceae
147 Rynchosia minima Fabaceae
7 Viccia cracca Fabaceae
148 Vicia acutifolia Fabaceae
222 Corydalis sempervirens Fumariaceae
174 Sabatia grandiflora Gentianaceae
180 Sabatia stellaris Gentianaceae
117 Geranium richardsonii Geraniaceae
18 Geranium robertanium Geraniaceae
159 Scaevola plumieri Goodeniaceae
207 Scaevola teccada var. taccada Goodeniaceae
52 Hemerocallis fulva Hemerocallidaceae
232 Iris versicolor Iridaceae
173 Sisyrinchium angustifolium Iridaceae
89 Sisyrinchium atlanticum Iridaceae
90 Zigadenus venenosus Liliaceae
141 Mentzelia floridana Loasaceae
241 Lycopodium annotinum Lycopodiaceae
242 Lycopodium obscurum Lycopodiaceae
142 Ammannia latifolia Lythraceae
48 Althaea offincinalis Malvaceae
136 Gossypium hirsutum Malvaceae
216 Malvaviscus penduliflorus Malvaceae
149 Sida acuta Malvaceae
135 Sida rhombifolia Malvaceae
58 Monotropa uniflora Monotropaceae
233 Monotropa uniflora Monotropaceae
190 Ficus aurea Moraceae
210 Callistemon viminale Myrtaceae
128 Epilobium latifolium Onagraceae
121 Epilobium paniculata var. jucundum Onagraceae
151 Guara angustifolia Onagraceae
160 Oenothera humifusa Onagraceae
223 Cypridium acaule Orchidaceae
163 Eulophia graminea Orchidaceae
201 Oxalis debilis var. corymbosa Oxalidaceae
25 Oxalis montana Oxalidaceae
2 Chelideonium majus Papaveraceae
164 Passiflora suberosa Passifloriaceae
47 Plantago major Plantaginaceae
236 Plantago maritima Plantaginaceae
236 Plantago maritima Plantaginaceae
115 Agropyron intermedium Poaceae/Gramineae
112 Agropyron spicatum Poaceae/Gramineae
191 Cenchrus gracillimus Poaceae/Gramineae
114 Poa nevadensis Poaceae/Gramineae
93 Sitaniona hystrix Poaceae/Gramineae
93 Sitaniona hystrix Poaceae/Gramineae
119 Gilia aggregata var. aggregata Polemoniaceae
97 Phlox hoodii Polemoniaceae
95 Phlox longifolia Polemoniaceae
125 Phlox pulvinata Polemoniaceae
184 Coccoloba uvifera Polygonaceae
116 Eriogonum umbelatum var. umbelatum Polygonaceae
62 Polypodium virginianum Polypodiaceae
64 Polypodium virginianum Polypodiaceae
65 Polypodium virginianum Polypodiaceae
146 Portulaca oleracea Portulacaceae
145 Portulaca pilosa Portulacaceae
44 Lysimachia ciliata Primulaceae
156 Samolus ebracteatus Primulaceae
227 Trientalis borealis Primulaceae
66 Pellaea atropurpurea Pteridaceae
67 Pellaea atropurpurea Pteridaceae
69 Pellaea atropurpurea Pteridaceae
12 Anemone canadensis Ranunculaceae
75 Anemone quinquefolia Ranunculaceae
6 Aquilegia canadensis Ranunculaceae
96 Delphinium depauperatum Ranunculaceae
70 Hepatica nobilis Ranunculaceae
72 Hepatica nobilis Ranunculaceae
14 Argentina anserine Rosaceae
111 Chamaebatiaraia millefolium Rosaceae
5 Fragaria vesca Rosaceae
86 Fragaria vesca Rosaceae
224 Potentilla simplex Rosaceae
107 Purshia tridentata Rosaceae
28 Rubus hispidus Rosaceae
42 Rubus odoratus Rosaceae
166 Ernodea littoralis Rubiaceae
8 Galium palustre Rubiaceae
4 Houstonia caerulea Rubiaceae
221 Houstonia caerulea Rubiaceae
240 Houstonia caerulea Rubiaceae
205 Pyschotria nervosa Rubiaceae
215 Randia aculeata Rubiaceae
197 Spermacoce spp. Rubiaceae
167 Zanthoxylum fagara Rutaceae
84 Salix rigida Salicaceae
88 Salix rigida Salicaceae
165 Dondonaea viscosa Sapindaceae
193 Dondonaea viscosa Sapindaceae
206 Dondonaea viscosa Sapindaceae
109 Lithophragma parviflora Saxifragaceae
87 Mitella diphylla Saxifragaceae
87 Mitella diphylla Saxifragaceae
130 Castileja spp. Scrophulariaceae
61 Linaria vulgaris Scrophulariaceae
110 Mimulus nanus Scrophulariaceae
50 Mimulus ringens Scrophulariaceae
123 Mimulus washingtonensis Scrophulariaceae
162 Physalis walteri Solanaceae
187 Solanum chenopodiodes Solanaceae
32 Solanum dulcamara Solanaceae
168 Suriana maritima Surianaceae
192 Polypremum procumbems Tetrachondraceae
31 Trillium erectum Trilliaceae
81 Trillium erectum Trilliaceae
88 Trillium undulatum Trilliaceae
182 Typha domingensis Typhaceae
49 Typha x gluaca Typhaceae
124 Lomatium triternatum ssp. triternatum Umbeliferae
200 Lantana camara Verbenaceae
157 Phyla nodiflora Verbenaceae
144 Bacopa monnieri Veronicaceae
158 Bacopa monnieri Veronicaceae
137 Capraria biflora Veronicaceae
143 Capraria biflora Veronicaceae
101 Viola nuttallii var. vallicola Violaceae
74 Viola rotundifolia Violaceae
77 Viola spp. Violaceae
78 Viola spp. Violaceae
29 Viola tricolor Violaceae
217 Tribulus cistoides Zygophyllaceae

Friday, January 27, 2012

My Recent Project

Right now, you may be saying to yourself, "What the heck is that?" A valid question. You are probably noticing the delicate plywood veneer, authentic refuse windows, gratuitous internal frame or upon closer inspection; handles on widows and hinged side door-then it becomes clear. It's a cold frame...sort of.

I picked up these two old windows in Burlington, VT my senior year of college and they've been stored at my parent's house ever since. About 2 years if you're curious. Luckily, my family has packrat tendencies and the windows didn't get trashed. It was always my intent to use them in an enclosure for my plants that may need more moisture and higher temperatures than available in ambient house conditions. Since I had a surplus of free time and my Dad had extra wood in the basement, I finally completed this little project. The windows needed a little planing on the edges and some glue for some cracking, but everything is relatively snug. I caulked seems on the bottom and outside to make the contraption a little more airtight. I plan to paint the inside white to maximize light availability. The more air-tight the box, the more moisture. To allow airflow I may install an old computer fan. It's not really transportable, so perhaps I'll add a wheel, wheel-barrow fashion.

Winter months in the Northeast tend to be a little harsh on some of my sensitive plants like, well, my sensitive plant (which actually died in the care of my parents while I was interning in Florida). A couple of my favorite plants (Guiacum sanctum, an apparently weeping Lysiloma latisiliquum phenotype and Acacia faresiana) that I acquired in Florida, will greatly appreciate their new home, especially the heat.

The design of this "moisture box" is probably suitable for withstanding the elements of spring, summer and fall. It is my hope that my parents will use it as a cold frame,if/when I no longer require it. My mother is already thinking of things she could use it for, but she can be whimsical, so maybe my dad will use it. So I guess it could be used as a cold frame, but it's initial contrived function was to keep certain plants happy.

I guess this was all just one big excuse to make something with junk windows...mission complete. A much easier solution would be to buy metal wire shelves, a plastic encasement and lights, but that's no fun.

This post was sort of lacking in fun botany stuff, but the project was fun to complete. Next week I think I'll discuss some crazy plants chemical/s. My inspiration for this topic comes from earlier this week when after I had my wisdom teeth removed and was coming out of an anaesthetic stupor. Apparently I was asking the oral surgeon about curare...

Thursday, January 19, 2012

Some of "my" plants

Over the past few days I've been going through the plants I've collected over the past couple of years. When I say collected, I mean digging up a plant, with some roots in tact and placing it in my plant press. A plant press is essentially a multi-layered cardboard and newspaper sandwich with two pieces of wood as the "bread". The dimensions of the contraption are 11.5 inches x 17.5 inches; the same as a sheet of herbarium paper. The pressing is achieved by straps. I've used cinder blocks, but found they decrease portability.

After the plants have been placed in the press (in newspaper, cardboard and wood, in that order) they are allowed to dry, which preserves leaf and flowers color in the process. Sometimes. I have a fair share of plants that dried black or have discolored in the process. In fact, sometimes drying quality can be an identification character in some dichotomous keys. One common plant that dries black is Monotropa uniflora, or Idianpipe. Recently I learned that these plants are not simply parasitic on the roots of forest trees. Instead, they obtain nutrients from mycorrhizae, an association of fungal hyphae and plant roots, that earn them their name as a mycotroph. Observing the extremely fine roots of Monotropa it is easy to imagine them penetrating delicate mycorrhizae.

I've only collected about 230 specimens so far, which isn't that much considering some folks collect thousands in their lifetime, for example botanist Awlyn Gentry collected around 80,000 plants in his lifetime (which was cut short). Of those plants that I've identified and mounted on herbarium paper two stand out, mostly because of their cool flowers: Mitella diphylla and Lithophragma parviflora. Both are small herbaceous plants in the Saxifragaceae family. A good description and distribution of the family can be found on this website. Scroll down to read about some of the pollination and seeds dispersal mechanisms! So cool! Check out the "Main Tree" too. Look for Saxifragales. Apparently it is basal to the rosids, which surprises me because they share so many characters. Specifically, they share leaves with stipules, 4-5 sepals and petals, a hypanthium and stamens 1x-2x petal number. Those are a limited number of characters, but would normally lead you to the rosids clade. I guess not in this case. There are many other morphological factors to consider, not to mention chemical and genetic identifiers.

Mitella diphylla has very small, but beautiful feather-like petals with 10 stamens hiding inside the hypathium. Lithophragma parviflora's petals have three lobes that give the illusion of more petals than actually exist with palmately lobed leaves to match. Click on the links to see what they look like.






Sunday, January 1, 2012

Organic, Tree-hugging Vegetarians Save World!

Overview and thoughts on “Solutions for a cultivated plant” by, Foley et al 2011

As the human population continues to grow exponentially, Foley et al. (2011) demonstrate current agricultural methods are failing. Through analyses of geospatial data models, the authors explain these failures and define the state of current global agriculture. They suggest four key strategies to increase global food availability by 100 to 180%.

The first strategy aims to stop expansion of agricultural lands, which currently occupy 38% of Earth’s land mass not permanently covered by ice. Of that land, 3.38 billion is pastureland and 1.53 billion acres is cropland. Agricultural land has increased by 3% between 1985 and 2005 mostly at the cost of tropical forests, resulting in a decrease of biodiversity and increasing greenhouse gasses, while contributing little to global food demands. The authors argue that agricultural expansion would disrupt essential environmental processes facilitated by sensitive ecosystems.

Despite the 3% increase in agricultural land from 1985 to 2005, the 20% increase in crop production during that period resulted from higher crop yields. These yields are thought to have resulted from fewer areas in fallow, fewer crop failures and mutli-cropping practices. Estimated crop production could increase by 28% or 58% if crop yields were 75% and 95%, respectively. However, with more production per acre, crops may require more nutrients.

The third suggestion the authors extend is resource efficiency. Fertilizers cost money to produce, purchase and apply; Overuse wastes resources, has potential to pollute water and harm marine life. However, appropriate use and accessibility could increase productivity. Irrigation management coupled with use of plants best suited for environmental conditions can reduce water usage would also increase crop production.

Finally, the authors present a provoking, but simple way increase crop production: Feed humans crops that are currently grown for livestock or other purposes. Such a shift could increase crop production by 49%. However, areas unsuitable for crops could benefit in terms of calories from pastoral livestock. As it stands, 35% of cropland is devoted to fodder. In other terms, about 75% of agricultural land is directly used for animals. Creating ways to reduce post-harvest crop losses, over 40% in developing countries, would also increase available food quantities. It is interesting to know consumers and retailers of industrialized countries can waste over 40% of post-harvest crop.

The paper mentions 1 in 7 are malnourished, but doesn’t define the food deficit in terms of kilocalories, nor does it suggest how much crop production should have increase between 1985 and 2005 to feed the population. Because the food deficit isn’t known the conclusion of, “[increasing] global food production by 100-180% [and] meeting projected demands (Foley et al. 2011),” becomes slightly ambiguous. Only two ways to increase crop production were assigned percentages; a maximum of 49% from livestock conversion and 58% from higher crop yields, which doesn’t add up to 180%. Consequently, the readers must assume the remaining 73% increase is from a combination of other strategies mentioned in the paper but without values.

Throughout the paper the authors emphasize sustainable agricultural practices. Simple practices to increase production like mulching to reduce water loss, adopting some organic practices and providing better access to better crops were touted. None of the ideas presented to sustainably increase food production are necessarily new, but the authors consolidate them and support them with compelling global analyses. They acknowledge all four strategies must be used in concert to achieve their claimed increase in crop production. It is likely more collaborative efforts and ideas will be necessitated from shortfalls in global crop production. With sustainability creeping into the academic world, it will be interesting to see if integrative sciences test permaculture’s merits. From the evidence presented by Foley et al 2011, organic, tree-hugging vegetarians may be ahead of the global food crisis curve.

Foley, J.A., Ramankutty, N., Brauman, K.A., Cassidy, E.S., Gerber, J.S., Johnston, M. Mueller, N.D., O’Connell, C., Ray, D.K., West, P.C., Balzer, C., Bennett, E.M., Carpenter, S.R., Hill, J., Monfreda, C., Polasky, S., Sheehan, J., Siebert, S., Tilman, D. & Zaks, D.P.M. (2011). Solutions for a cultivated planet. Nature 478: 337-342.

check out the website for some cool "supplementary information" at the bottom of the page: http://www.nature.com/nature/journal/v478/n7369/full/nature10452.html

Tuesday, December 20, 2011

Eastern Black Walnuts

This post concerns eastern black walnut (Juglans nigra). Why? Being aware of their edibility and never having tasted a black walnut, I decided to take advantage of their abundance while living in Belgrade Lakes, Maine. Black walnuts have highly valued wood and interesting ecological significance in addition to their tasty nuts.

Two species closely related to black walnuts are the English walnut and the butternut. The English walnut (Juglans regia) is common to grocery store mixed nut selections and native to Europe. Like black walnuts, butternuts (J. cinerea) are native to Eastern North America, have edible nuts and are common ornamental and forest trees. I vividly remember collecting neighbors' butternuts in a bucket for squirrels when I was a child: Pericarps adhered uncomfortably to my bare feet; grime stuck to my hands and stained my clothes.

The pericarp, the outermost layer of the black walnut, differs from the butternut's. The butternut's is thin and sticky; the black walnut's isn’t and can be quite thick. The outer pericarp is often called the "husk," it is green at maturity, gradually turns yellow, softens and will eventually turn black. Having an almost citrus-like scent when fresh, the husk will stain skin black. Inside the husk lies the hard, rough inner pericarp. Cracking this will reveal the "nut meat", which is, in fact the seed's cotyledons. This website has a good explanation on nut anatomy: http://waynesword.palomar.edu/ecoph8.htm.

I collected roughly two hundred black walnuts while in Maine. The first batch of 75 I neglected, their outer pericarp turned black and started to grow mold. After removing the rotting husk with a hammer and knife (to scrape the gunk off), I placed the nuts back into the 5-gallon bucket I collected them in-bad idea. It was too moist, mold continued to grow on them. So I tried to heat them in an oven to kill the mold, but wound up desiccating the nut meat.

The second batch I collected also started to rot, but this time, after removing the outer pericarp, I placed them in a cardboard box. Because they were only layered 2-nuts deep moisture wasn't trapped and no mold grew. I then placed this cardboard box on a radiator, which helped reduce moisture and "cured" the nut meat. Curing is essential if you are going to consume the nuts. Usually, it takes a couple months. I believe it only took a couple of weeks on the radiator because of the constant heat.

Once the nuts cured, I set to work cracking the inner pericarp with a metal vice. Of course, I was wearing safety glasses and gloves to protect myself from any shell shrapnel. Despite reading a couple informal methods on cracking the nuts, none seemed to prevent damage to the cotyledons. The result: hours of picking through shell debris and meat extraction with a cake tester. Eventually, I would up with about two and a half cups of meat. Obviously, I was (and remain) frustrated that I wasted at least four hours "husking" and six hours "shelling", not to mention the black fingers and fingernails that resulted from both processes. And by the way, this stain can last for weeks of your skin. Those F***ING nuts better taste like ambrosia, I thought. Honestly though, the nuts taste pretty good and I will likely them in a fudge. If I had to describe their flavor, it would be similar to English walnuts, a little sweeter with a slight hint of rum. Evidently, the black walnuts can be for dyes and medicines (5).

I recently learned that there are a few different cultivars of J. nigra, some of which are better for nut production, others for timber. Cultivars best suited for nut production are grown in orchards and can be trellised for easy access. The nut cultivars apparently have thinner shells, making them easier to crack, avoiding my problem of nut meat fragmentation (9). One acre of trees is capable of producing 2000 pounds of nut meat, which can sell for 15 dollars per pound-that’s about $30,000 per acre if you don’t subtract costs of harvesting and husking-a considerable amount of money (7). Other sources indicate a range in price from $443 to $2,844 per acre, when sold for 0.07 cents per pound (3). Cultivars grown for their timber can fetch $2,472 per acre. However, the USDA and Illinois Department of Forestry published a flier with prices from $130 to & $1500 per board foot (board foot=1ft x 1ft x 1in) and up to $2200 if delivered directly to a mill. Black walnut and other timber prices can be found here: http://web.extension.illinois.edu/forestry/il_timber_prices/index.html.

A professor of mine once mentioned that mature trees can be worth up to $100,000, and I suppose that is true, since mature black walnut can be 150 feet tall with diameters of 8 feet (2). Let’s say you have a 2-foot diameter tree that is 150 feet tall (with these dimensions, the tree would likely be top-heavy; the trunk probably wouldn’t support the canopy). Keeping in mind the diminishing size of the trunk and branching, let’s say the trunk reaches 6o feet before branching or decreasing in diameter (also unlikely). Using these measurements, you can have twenty 60 foot x 1 foot x 1 inch boards. This comes out to be 1.8 million dollars for that 60-foot trunk. That’s a lot of money. Obviously, this calculation is a best case scenario.

Before you start your black walnut orchard, you should probably know they do best in well drained, nutrient-rich soils (2, 12). They require full sun, which can cause their trunks to branch close to the ground. I assume this low branching would decrease the value of the wood for three reasons: smaller diameter, curvier trunks and knots. It would be possible to train and trim your tree to grow vertically with one trunk, don’t fret. Plant your walnuts now, because it will take about 75 years for them to reach 80 feet with optimal conditions (11). Luckily, the walnuts are easy to propagate.

After husking them all they need is a little stratification. 120 days at 35-45 degrees F should do it (7). Plant the seedlings in fall. There are a number of cultivars to consider as I mentioned earlier. Most cultivars need to be grafted (5). Make sure you select a cultivar or rootstock that is best suited for climate and soil. You probably don’t have to worry about this if you collect black walnuts from a tree close to your planting location. Additionally, the trees require at least 170 growing days and an average yearly temperature of 55 degrees F. Given its natural range, the black walnuts probably tolerate most USDA hardiness zones.

Most of the information I’ve collected seems to be from the Midwest or South, leading me to believe that is where most black walnut orchards exist. Plus, I haven’t heard of any in the Northeast. Walnut species native to western states, J. californica and J. hindsii, are under threat from Pityophthorus juglandis, a beetle and Geosmithia morbida, a fungus (4). The beetle is common to Southwestern states and does little to harm walnut trees as it burrows into twigs and trunks. The fungus, however, transported by the beetle produces cankers that girdles and kills trees in as little as 3 years (13, 4). Multiple beetle wounds can result in multiple cankers, giving the disease its name: thousand cankers disease. Thousand cankers disease has the potential to reach eastern states and devastate J. nigra populations. Butternuts could also be at risk, but they are already experiencing depressing declines resulting from a separate pathogen, Sirococcus clavigignenti-juglandacearum (8). Thankfully, J. nigra is rarely infected by the butternut’s pathogen (7).

This information is a little scary. Perhaps now is the time to start hybridizing resistance Japanese walnuts with susceptible American species (7). It may be difficult to grow other plants within proximity of eastern black walnuts because of the allelopathic chemical juglone (5-hydroxy-l,4-naphthoquinone if anyone was curious) produced by black walnuts (10, 6). Allelopathy is the inhibition of plant growth by a phytochemical. Most allelopathic chemical are secondary metabolites. It is generally accepted that juglone inhibits respiration and photosynthesis (1). Although, I don’t believe the exact inhibition mechanism is known. I didn’t search exhaustively, but there also seems to be lack of research on intraspecific J. nigra allelopathy. Maybe this is because J. nigra exhibits no noticeable growth limitations in orchards, meaning it has juglone tolerance. It makes sense that it would have tolerance, but I know spotted knapweed exhibits inter- and intraspecific competition resulting from its allelopathic chemical catechin. Nevertheless, what are the effects of juglone on J. nigra seedlings? Different cultivars? Rootstocks?

Anyways, some plants are tolerant of juglone, like black raspberries and cherries (1). Mmm… black raspberries, cherries and black walnuts, all within an arm’s reach. Doesn’t that sound amazing? If growing black walnuts it is important to consider how they will interact with nearby plants or gardens. As with any garden, one must do their research. Other thoughts to ruminate are the implications of allelopathic tolerances in plant ecology and defining plant communities.

In conclusion, black walnuts are a valuable tree, worth planting. It can serve as a food source for humans and wildlife or provide income. There are many potential pests, especially in orchard monocultures, but planting some may preserve genetic diversity if a pest or pathogen were to start destroying the population. At the very least, planting a black walnut could sequester carbon and decrease your carbon footprint. Growing an eastern black walnut might just give you the satisfaction of explaining allelopathy to your friends, or simply give you some shade on a summer’s day.

Works Cited:

1 Dana, M.N. & Lerner, B.R. 2001. Black Walnut toxicity. Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service. Department of Horticulture.

2 Dickerson, J. 2002. Plant Fact Sheet: Black Walnut. USDA NRCS New York State Office.

3 Garrett, H.E., Jones, J.E., Kurtz, W.B., & Slusher, J.P. 1991. Black Walnut (Juglans nigra L.) agroforestry-its design and potential as a land-use alternative. The Forestry Chronicle 67 (3): 213-218.

4 Garvey, K.K. “Beetle and Fungus One-Two Punch Threatens Black Walnut Trees, Scientists Warn” UC Davis Department of Entomology, 2 July, 2009. Web. 23 Dec. 2011. <http://entomology.ucdavis.edu/news/walnuttwigbeetle.html>.

5 Hurteau M.D. 2003. Plant Guide: Black Walnut. USDA NRCS National Plant Resource Center.

6 Jose, Shibu & Gillespie, A.R. 1998. Allelopathy in black walnut (Juglan nigra L.) alley cropping. II. Effects of joglone on hydroponically grown (Zea mays L.) and soybean (Glycine max L. Merr.) growth and physiology. Plant and Soil 203: 199-205.

7 McKenna, J., Ostry, M. & Woeste, K. 4th International Workshop on the Genetics of Host‐Parasite Interactions in Forestry Eugene, OR USA 2011. “Screening Butternut & Hybrid

Butternut for Resistance to the Butternut Canker Canker Fungus.” USDA-Forest Service, Northern Research Station–HTIRC at Purdue Web. <http://ucanr.org/sites/tree_resistance_2011conference/files/121573.pdf>.

8 Ostrsy, M.E., Mielke, M.E. &, Anderson, R.I., “How to Identify Butternut Canker and Manage Butternut TreesUSDA Forest service, North Central Forest Experiment Station, Northeastern Area, S&PF Region 8, S&PF. 1996. Web. 23 Dec. 2011. .” < http://na.fs.fed.us/spfo/pubs/howtos/ht_but/ht_but.htm>.

9 Reid, W., Coggeshal, M., & Garrett, H.E. Growing Black Walnut for Nut Production. Agroforestry in Action. U. Missouri Center for Agroforestry.September 2009.

10 Reitveld, W. J. 1983. Allelopathic effects of juglone on germination and growth of several herbaceous and woody species. J. Chem. Ecology 9(2): 295-308.

11 Schlesinger R. & Funk, D.T. Managers handbook for black walnuts. North Central Forest Experiment Station. Forest Service. USDA. General Technical Report NC-38.

12 Schesinger R.C. & Williams, R.D. 1984. Growth response of black walnut to interplanted trees. Forest Ecol. & Management. 9: 235-243.

13 Steven Seybold, Dennis Haugen and Andrew Graves.2011. Thousand Cankers Disease. Pest Alert. USDA Forest Service.